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Seasonal Recipes

Asian Holiday Buffet

In Africa, at the heart of Mombassa, is a restaurant called “Rice.” Five Japanese washi paper lamps sit on the red lacquered bar like Sunkist sails, or the Sydney opera house on fire. All the tables are crafted from the trunks of teak Sulawbsi trees and sit on a pale, pale bamboo floor. The ceiling is painted a silky ivory green. This restrained style — created by the owners David and Kai Chiu — shows a true Asian mind. If the furnishings and overall look is one of simple strong lines and uncluttered elegance, so too should the spaces between them.

The whole world knows the architecture of a Wang dress or the starkness of an Issey Miyake store. But in contrast to these examples of an understated approach to food and fashion, traditional Asian holidays are known for their abundance in color, food, presentation and symbolism. Often the ingredients used in cooking and decorating your table are symbolic for both the guest, the environment and the host.

To begin the day, before even starting the food, plan an early morning trip to the flower market. Select fresh branches of kumquats or quince blossoms, or maybe tall green water bamboo. Any of these fragrant vines placed on your buffet table — along with chive buds, Asian basil, lemongrass, ginger, star anise and Szechuan peppercorn — will not only emit the wonderful aromas reminiscent of Asian gardens, but you will also be inviting in every good luck spirit around.

A large lacquer tray with papaya, pomegranate, star fruit and tangerines will act as an offering and desert, along with sweet sticky rice balls eaten in honor of Khun Yin, the Goddess of Beauty. Vegetables such as Choy Sum, lightly glazed with oil, become jade green after blanching, and signify wealth and health. Fish is symbolic of contentment and freedom. Noodles signify a long life; gingko nuts may heed fertility; and melon, sunflower, and pumpkin seeds show your joy and happiness for your family.

Handing out small boxes of candies and dried fruits is sending a sweet message to the one you love. Once you have adorned the table, made way for the spirits and selected the perfect ingredients, try your hand at some of these classic recipes, sure to become holiday favorites.

Black & White Sesame Wonton Chips

1/4 cup white sesame seeds
1/4 cup black sesame seeds
1 to 2 packages small wonton wrappers
Sea salt
Peanut oil
Dipping Sauce
1/2 cup sweet chile sauce
1/2 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
Heat oil 375° F

Mix sesame seeds in a bowl. Fill a second bowl with water. Lay five wonton wrappers on a dry surface, brush with water, sprinkle the seeds. Add the hot oil and fry for 30 seconds. Drain. Dipping sauce, mix the sweet Chile sauce with creme fraiche or sour cream.

Yield: makes 50–60.

Green Mango Papaya Salad
In Classic Thai Dressing (Yam Mamuang)

1 green papaya, peeled and julienned
2 large green mangoes, peeled and julienned
1/4 pound haricot vert or long string beans, cut 1 inch thick
6 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 onions, finely sliced
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground dried shrimp
2 tablespoons roasted ground peanuts
1 teaspoon finely sliced fresh Thai Red Chili
1/2 bunch cilantro
1 teaspoon dried chili flakes (optional)
8 bibb lettuce leaves (to serve)
12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half (optional, to serve)

1. In a large bowl, mix the lemon juice with the green mango, papaya and string beans for 5 minutes. In a wok or frying pan, fry garlic in oil until golden, then add onions and fry until clear. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on absorbent kitchen paper.
2. Stir in fish sauce, sugar, dried shrimp and chili into the green mango and papaya mixture, adding dried chili flakes if desired. Toss gently, then chill. Serve on a bed of 2 bib lettuce leaves, with garnishes of peanuts, fried onion and garlic.

Yield: serves 4.

Lemongrass Ginger Cosmopolitan

4 ounces vodka
1 ounce Cointreau
Splash of cranberry juice
Splash of lime juice

Serve in martini glass. Garnish with orange peel or lemon/lime twist.

Yield: makes one large drink!